Pete Thomas Outdoors

Climber Tommy Caldwell recounts epic El Capitan summit bid

Tommy Caldwell was unsuccessful in a recent bid to reach the summit of El Capitan in California's Yosemite National Park, but the effort and determination displayed by the professional rock climber was admirable to say the least.

Caldwell, 33, spent 16 days on El Capitan's 3,000-foot face, attempting a seemingly impossible free-climbing route. While 16 days is not a record -- the legendary Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell (no relation to Tommy) once spent 27 nights on El Cap -- it's about five times longer than a typical climbing party spends while trying to advance up simpler routes on the granite monolith.

(*Editor's note: A similar version of this story appears on the GrindTv.com outdoors blog)

Free-climbers use ropes and a belaying partner to secure holds in case of a fall. Caldwell's wife, Becca, was by his side for 10 of the 16 days. They slept on portable ledges and inside hanging tents secured to the granite; they endured freezing wind, rain, snowstorms and cascading sheets of ice while he aspired to complete the "Dawn Wall project."

A more apt title might be "Mission Impossible." Caldwell, for a third consecutive year, was forced to abandon his quest short of the summit. He quit two weeks ago when the climbing season ended, after failing to negotiate the 13th of a series of pitches on a route that remains unconquered by free-climbers.

His odyssey, however, should not be regarded as a failure. This is how elite-level rock climbers ultimately succeed: with stubborn determination.

"The process is so long that you hit walls all the time," said Caldwell, who completed some of the first 12 pitches after as many as 15 attempts, rubbing his fingers raw. "I hit walls dozens of times, and each time you decide whether you want to keep going or not."

Most of conquered routes on El Capitan feature fairly distinct crack systems or other features that allow for handholds or footholds. Much of the Dawn Wall route is virtually featureless. "There's just not a heck of a lot to hold onto, so it makes for incredibly continuous hard climbing," Caldwell said.

Lottery registration open for Yosemite's Ostrander Ski Hut

Cross-country skiers and snowshoers considering making the 10-mile trek from Badger Pass to the Ostrander Ski Hut in Yosemite National Park are advised that the lottery registration period for the winter season ends on Nov. 16 at 5 p.m.

The immensely popular hut, at the end of a physically demanding but truly spectacular trek, is a rustic two-story stone building at the edge of Ostrander Lake at 8,500 feet. It provides overnight accommodations for $42 Mondays through Thursdays, and $52 Fridays through Sundays.

"Along the routes to Ostrander, there are places of solitude and awe-inspiring views of Half Dome, the Clark Range and Mount Hoffmann," says Mike Tollefson, president of the Yosemite Conservancy, which is handling the registration lottery. "The ski area around the Ostrander cirque offers many unique ski trails, including multiple descents off Horse Ridge."

Adds longtime hut-keeper Fritz Bagget: "It's truly a unique experience to be in real wilderness in a national park during winter. Imagine open granite bowls stretching from ponds and lakes to peaks and steep ridges--it’s very special."

Accommodations are limited and in high demand so applicants are chosen via a random lottery system. Applications must be submitted to the Yosemite Conservancy by the deadline and, beginning Nov. 28, remaining reservations can be made by calling 209-379-5161. For lottery and registration information, visit the Conservancy website.

The hut will be open from mid-December through early April.

-- Image of Ostrander Ski Hut is courtesy of Hugh Sakols

Yosemite National Park volunteer cleanup event Sept. 21-25

Yosemite National Park is a place of such stunning scenery and natural beauty that it's alarming to imagine visitors would trash the place.

But, sadly they do -- and so the Yosemite Climbing Assn. is requesting volunteers to lend a hand picking up other people's refuse during the eighth annual "Yosemite Facelift," taking place Sept. 21-25. Participants will assist picking up litter at various locations in the park, including roadways, trails, climbing routes, the river corridor, and in parking, camping and lodging areas.

Last year, more than 1,000 Facelift volunteers collected approximately 172,000-pounds of debris -- of which about 80% was recycled -- and cleaned up in excess of 160 miles of roadway, 100 miles of trails and 20 miles of river area.

Interested volunteers should sign up at the booth in front of the Yosemite Valley Visitor Center from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. A second check-in station will be located at Lembert Dome Parking Area in Tuolumne Meadows, and will be open from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. from Friday through Sunday.

Crew leaders will be on hand to distribute trash bags, litter sticks and gloves and organize work groups.

Cleanup participants will have access to all sorts of events, including a daily raffle, evening programs and an end of event reception with complimentary food and drinks and live music.

Those unable to participate during the cleanup but still interested in helping may make a tax deductible donation to help pay for costs associated with the effort. Donations can be made to the Yosemite Climbing Assn, P.O. Box 89, Yosemite, CA 95389.

I applaud the efforts of the organizers and volunteers, though find it bothersome that people can visit such a wonderous treasure and not have the decency to pick up after themselves.

Image of some of the debris collected last year courtesy of Yosemite Climbing Assn.

Yosemite National Park trail improvement project completed

Yosemite National Park is a place of such natural beauty that it seems easy to take little notice of the areas that help visitors enjoy their magnificent surroundings. Thankfully, there are those who realize the importance of maintaining these oft-overlooked spots, and a 75-mile trail restoration project in Yosemite has come to completion with a ceremonial ribbon-cutting ceremony Wednesday at the park's East Valley Loop Trail.

The six-year, $13.5-million project -- funded mostly by Yosemite Conservancy doners -- is reportedly the largest trail repair and restoration project ever undertaken in Yosemite.

"Our goal was elegant in its simplicity -- improve the condition of Yosemite's most treasured, high-profile trails in order to protect irreplaceable natural resources," said Yosemite Conservancy president Mike Tollefson.

More than 30 miles of the John Muir Trail, from Tuolumne Meadows through Little Yosemite Valley to Yosemite Valley, had work done. There are new stone walls and rock staircases as well as drainage structures and habitat restoration to improve safety and protect areas bordering the trail.

Restoration and improvements were also made to about half a dozen trailheads along Tioga Road, offering better defined routes to popular locations, safer parking, food storage lockers or wilderness education exhibits.

"Yosemite's trails are pathways to discovery and inspiration. Some of the park's most important trails were improved to reverse years of degradation," said Park superintendent Don Neubacher. "The result is better trails, restored habitats and greater education opportunities for visitors."

 

Photo: Hikers enjoy the John Muir Trail near Nevada Falls and Liberty Cap in Yosemite National Park. Credit: Keith Walklet

Hiker falls to death on Half Dome in Yosemite National Park

A 26-year-old woman fell to her death Sunday while descending from the summit of Half Dome within Yosemite National Park.

Hayley LaFlamme, of San Ramon, Calif., plummeted about 600 feet from the cabled route on the granite monolith. The incident is under investigation but thunderstorms were in the vicinity most of Sunday morning and the incident occurred at about noon.

Stormy weather makes for extremely hazardous conditions. Those planning to climb Half Dome should consult a web page set up by the park to show how to prepare for the endeavor.

The last hiker to have died on Half Dome was Majoj Kumar, also from San Ramon, on June 13, 2009. The most recent fatal accident on Half Dome's cabled route before that was in 2007.

Tioga Road in Yosemite National Park to open Saturday

The long-anticipated opening of Tioga Road, which traverses Yosemite National Park, will occur Saturday at 8 a.m.,  according to park superintendent Don Neubacher.

The Tioga Road (State Highway 120) represents the popular east-west crossing of the Sierra Nevada. News of its opening will be well-received by fans of the majestic Sierra wilderness park.

However, there remains several feet of snow in the Tuolumne Meadows area. Hiking opportunities are limited and visitors are urged to use extreme caution. Additionally, ice is prevalent and stream crossings are treacherous.

Campgrounds along the Tioga Road are closed.  All commercial services, including the gas station, store, and village grill, also are closed until further notice. There are several no-stopping zones along the road, but vault toilets will be available in several locations.

Rafters, kayakers to enjoy one of best-ever whitewater seasons

While skiers and snowboarders are still carving turns in some areas across the West, thanks to  record snowfall winter that seemingly refuses to end, kayakers and rafters are gearing up for what's sure to be one of the most amazing whitewater seasons in recent history.

"These numbers are blowing my mind," Joe Carberry, senior editor for Canoe & Kayak magazine, said in reference to June snow pack summaries for states such as California, Idaho, Washington and Colorado. "You'd be safe to say that most river basins in the inter-mountain and western United States are still averaging above 200% of average. That is incredible for this time of year. Some, including drainages in California and Idaho, were still averaging 400%."

The accompanying video, showcasing the skills of top kayakers on Quebec's more low-lying waterways, provides a glimpse at what rivers out West will soon look like.

 

What this means is that the season, rather than starting in mid-May and waning by mid-July, is just beginning and, because mountain ranges throughout the West are so laden with dense snow packs, rivers will provide rollicking thrills for kayakers and rafters through August and even well into September in some places.

Carberry, when asked via email to list some of his top prospects, mentioned the Arkansas River in Colorado, "with the Pine Creek and Numbers sections set to create carnage galore."

He touted the Class V section of the North Fork of the Payette River in Boise, Idaho, which set flow records last year "and could get even bigger this season."

In California, Carberry predicted, "The rivers won't be the only thing gushing. Chili Bar on the South Fork of the American will be overflowing with customers and raft guides ready to run the classic Chili Bar section down to Folsom Lake, while Class V kayakers get their scare on by charging the Golden Gate section."

Another top spot in California will be the spectacular Forks of the Kern two-day stretch of mostly Class V rapids (the most difficult) in the Mt. Whitney drainage, which feeds the Kern River. That will peak July through August, according to Kern River Outfitters guide Luther Stephens.

Stephens, a well-traveled veteran, also touts the Middle Fork of Idaho's Salmon River; Oregon's Rogue and "last but certainly not least, the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon. The Canyon is flowing at high levels and is slated to have a great season as well. The Canyon is awesome. You have to do it, if you have not already."

Sounds like a worthwhile plan.

-- Pete Thomas

Mariposa Grove Road opens in Yosemite National Park

Yosemite National Park announced that Mariposa Grove Road opened Friday at 9 a.m., allowing access to the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees.

It's  is the largest Giant Sequoia grove inside the majestic park. The road is located near the park's South Entrance on Highway 41.

Some commercial services will be available and tram tours will begin at some point during the next few weeks. Though spring is finally evident, visitors should exercise caution because snow and ice might still be present. Temporary weather-related closures are still possible in the weeks ahead.

Yosemite also announced that road construction on Wawona Road will resume Monday after being suspended late last fall as wintry weather set in. Visitors traveling into Yosemite via Highway 41/Wawona Road will experience delays of up to 30 minutes between 6 a.m.-5 p.m. on weekdays.

The improvement project entails 24.4 miles of Wawona Road starting from South Entrance and ending at Bridalveil Straight in Yosemite Valley.  Work includes ditch paving, headwall repairs, sign repairs, crosswalk striping, and other minor grinding and paving.

The project is scheduled for completion on May 27.

-- Pete Thomas

Image of Grizzly Giant within Mariposa Grove is courtesy of Yosemite

Yosemite National Park reopens with limited services

Yosemite National Park reopened with limited services Thursday morning, four days after the majestic western Sierra destination had been rendered inaccessible by heavy snow, fallen trees and power lines.

Highways 120 and 140, leading into Yosemite, were opened Thursday morning. Highway 41 was expected to open early Thursday afternoon. Hetch Hetchy Road and Badger Pass Road remain closed.

The park is open to day visitors until 7 p.m. Room reservations for overnight visitors will be honored. 

The park plans to expand services Friday, if conditions warrant. The park remains without electrical power, but that's expected to be restored by the weekend. Generator power will be available in lodging facilities beginning Friday night. Heated tent cabins will be available at Curry Village.

Badger Pass Ski Area and Yosemite Valley campgrounds will remain closed through the weekend. The campgrounds are expected to open at noon Monday.

A winter storm warning is in effect through Friday morning so prospective visitors should call (209) 372-0200 for updated road conditions within the park. The number for recorded conditions outside of Yosemite is (800) 427-7623.

The Merced River Plan Recreation Workshop, which had been scheduled for Friday, has been postponed indefinitely.

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: Upper Yosemite Fall in Yosemite National Park during a break in stormy weather that had shut down the area since Sunday. Credit: Kari Cobb

Highway 140 into Yosemite reopens a day after rockfall

Yosemite National Park announced Friday evening that Highway 140/Portal Road, which leads into the sprawling California park, has reopened a day after it had been closed because a large rock had fallen onto the roadway.

The rock was estimated to measure 10-15 feet tall, six feet wide and four feet deep. No injuries or structural damage were reported but damage to the roadway is still being assessed.

All other roads, except for the seasonal closure of the Tioga Road and Glacier Point Road, are open.  Visitors should be aware that chains might be required on park roadways.

Updated road and weather information can be obtained by calling 209-372-0200.

Yosemite photo courtesy of Kenny Karst / DNC Parks and Resorts at Yosemite, Inc.