I drove to Rosarito Beach with friends this past weekend and was surprised to discover that the Baja California town's namesake hotel was bustling with tourists.
Most were Mexicans participating in a church retreat, but at least two dozen guests had made the short drive from Southern California. Perhaps this is an indication that the once-popular tourist destination is mounting a slow comeback two years after the peak of hysteria regarding drug-related violence in Baja's border region.
I was just as surprised, after our stay, to have been able to obtain a free pass from the Rosarito Beach Hotel, which enables guests to enter a special lane at the San Ysidro border crossing. That transformed what would have been a 90-minute wait into a mere 10-minute delay. These passes are part of an effort by some of the larger hotel owners to lure tourists back to northern Baja.
There were 17 people, including three teenage girls (pictured below), in our group. The trip was organized by Philip Friedman, a friend from Torrance who has started a "Baja Now" Facebook page and might soon host a weekly radio show about Baja California.
Many of us had planned to go fishing with some of the commercial pangeros at the village of Popotla, but strong winds ended those plans. Instead, we broke into small groups and explored, shopped, rode ATVs, dined at local restaurants -- Vince's (seafood) and La Flor de Michoacan (carnitas).
Some of us drove through the green countryside to La Bufadora, the natural blowhole south of Ensenada. It was jammed with tourists, thanks to the presence of two massive cruise ships in Ensenada harbor. Vendors on the street leading to the blowhole were hustling as if there was no tomorrow to hawk their wares -- that in itself was a major spectacle.
The trip was short and pleasant, though it was sad to see some of the businesses struggling to stay open. The centerpiece Rosarito Beach Hotel is fortunate to have a somewhat faithful following but it's also struggling to fill its main building and its newer and more luxurious Pacifico Tower, which boasts an infinity pool that boasts a spectacular view of the Pacific from its roof above the 19th floor.
But tourists seem to be trickling back and, in fact, most in our group agreed to return later this spring or in early summer, when when the weather is more accommodating. Look for us at the pool or, perhaps better yet, on the beach.
-- Pete Thomas
Photos of Rosarito Beach (top) and three incredibly cute girls on ATVs are by Pete Thomas and Gayle Butschke Johnson, respectively
Cool article =).
I was going to visit Rosario last week for the first time, but didn't want to go because supposedly it was raining there.
I plan to travel next week for a couple of days now, just to scope the scene and see how everything is.
If I like what I see, I plan to establish residence there. Of course, Rosarito is not the 'biggest' tourist areas like Ensenada, or Cabo San Lucas, which I think will make a better residence for me.
Basically, I want the luxury of a nearby beach, and the other commodities that come with living in Mexico..
My Spanish varies, I am good in some parts of the language, but clueless in others. I will need another month, of focusing strictly on speaking and listening.
Scott Warner
P.S. Yeah, I am a Californian, so being close to the states is a feat. I'd love to keep as well.
Thanks for letting me chime in!
Posted by: Scott Warner | Feb 06, 2013 at 10:56 AM
Pete,
Thanks for the post. My wife and daughter and I been driving down to Rosarito every other month for the past five years from Irvine, CA. One weekend in May, 2009 we were literally the only Americans in Baja. It's sure great to see things coming back!
As I'm sure you know, the tourist areas in Baja are safer than a lot of areas in LA/OC.
Hope to run into you down south soon.
Dave
Posted by: Dave | Apr 19, 2011 at 08:30 AM
I appreciate your article and support of Baja tourism. I am an american women who has lived in Baja, coming up on 10 years. I couldn't imagine living any place else.
I was married in Rosarito a couple of years ago and recently wrote a blog post about it.
http://wp.me/p19PFc-70
Thanks again for your article, I'm glad you had a great time and welcome you back!
Chris
Posted by: Chris Escoto de Banuelos | Apr 15, 2011 at 11:11 AM
Good to hear people are getting the word out that Baja is still a great place to visit. I work in the Mexican Insurance business and we received tons of questions each day on whether its safe to travel to Baja or not. I will be sharing this article with our customers.
Thank you.
Eddie
Posted by: EddieMex | Apr 14, 2011 at 09:31 AM
Pete,
You and I have had so many great times in Baja and this was no exception. The people down south were great, Don Ashley ran in to some new friends, the food fantastic and the whale watching from my balcony at the Rosarito Beach Hotel was amazing. All I can say is, when are we going back?
Posted by: Philip Friedman | Apr 13, 2011 at 12:36 PM
I am an 30 year old amerian woman and I have made Rosarito my full time home for 4 years, and have beenm coming down here regularly since I was 8 years old. I am even raising my 3 year old daughter down here, and I see it as completly safe. All the violence effects policia y narcos (cops and drug dealers) and as far as i know in Rosarito no innocent bystanders. It is a beautiful town, wonderful warm people, great service, amazing bargins and can accomidate every type of tourist. Weather it is party animals, family vacationers, recreation junkies, golfers, RVers, everyone will fall in love with Baja, espically the Rosarito area if they give it a chance.
I plan on staying in Rosarito indefinatly, I just recently started my own massage/spa buiness down here, and I have faith the charm of the area, and the honest fact it isn't dangerous for tourists will lead to a booming future in rosarito. Come see for yourselves
Posted by: Shana McCarthy | Apr 13, 2011 at 12:00 PM