This has become a long, bone-numbing, wearying and dangerous month for Lonnie Dupre, who is attempting to become the first person to solo-climb Alaska's Mt. McKinley, North America's tallest peak, in January.
Dupre spent the seven of the last eight days holed up in a narrow snow cave at 17,200 feet -- McKinley (commonly referred to as Denali, or the "High One") stands at 20,320 feet -- as 50-mph winds raged across the frozen landscape and temperatures reached 40 below.
On Tuesday afternoon, according to expedition manager Tom Surprenant, the climber took advantage of a brief favorable weather window -- a storm cleared and winds had subsided to 25 mph -- and descended to a larger cave that serves as a makeshift camp at 14,200 feet.
"It'd be suicide for him to continue without first coming down to regroup," Surprenant said, adding that Dupre was weakened and will rest for a day or two, rejuvenate his lungs and pick up a dry sleeping bag before attempting what is hoped will be a two-day push to the summit.
Surprenant, who is headquartered in Talkeetna, Alaska, said during a phone interview that Dupre had been experiencing headaches and was in danger of developing mountain sickness and hypothermia because of prolonged exposure to high altitude and frigid temperatures.
In his latest audio report, posted Monday on his website via satellite phone, Dupre said he was growing weary because the air was so thin, and that he was having trouble keeping warm.
"I'm waiting for a window. I can't climb up, and I can't climb down," said the renowned polar explorer from Grand Marais, Minnesota. "I still have a good attitude and I'm fairly optimistic, but there's no let up in this wind."
Denali is dangerous even in the summer because of unpredictable weather and vast crevasse fields. The danger level increases exponentially once winter sets in. Only nine expeditions have reached the summit during the winter; six deaths occurred during those trips.
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